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There’s a lot of myths surrounding the application of concealer when you’re desperately trying to cover up spots and blemishes.
When do you apply it? How much do you apply? How do you make it stay put all day?
We answer, thanks to Glamour, some of these questions here.
Apply AFTER foundation (at least most of the time)
You might well be used to applying concealer before your makeup, but the key is to apply after you’ve done your base. Dab a thin layer of foundation on the areas that need it most.
By minimising spots (and surprisingly fully hiding some of them), this reduces the amount of concealer you end up needing to apply. That means a more natural finish in the end—plus less overall makeup on days you want to feel fresh-faced.
Only recommend using concealer before foundation when you have a lot of blemishes to cover and you need to use tons of thick, correcting concealer for coverage. Then you can lightly stipple or dab foundation on top of the concealer for extra coverage and blending.”
Relying On Your Fingers Alone
Fingers: They’re so handy and never require brush cleaner. And using them to apply concealer can work just fine. In fact, when it comes to the delicate skin under your eyes, the warmth of a finger can help warm makeup so it blends on more easily and seamlessly. But we all know expert blending is where the makeup magic really happens. In the case of dark circles, that involves going in with a dampened makeup sponge after you’ve dabbed on concealer, to smooth every last crease and edge and truly look like you’ve achieved more than eight hours sleep. This will also pick up any excess concealer, which is what can turn cakey as the day goes on.
And for blemishes and dark spots, fingers really aren’t the best concealing tool. You need something much more targeted to avoid creating an obvious halo of makeup around the area—a brush with a stiff, pointed tip. This will let you deposit a tiny bit of concealer in the center of the spot, then almost microscopically stipple-blend it outward until any redness or darkness has been blended away.
Set with Powder
As with everything pertaining to looking good, it’s all about layering. Sometimes even the most stay-put concealer needs a crucial final step: powder. It’s the best way to lock that color in place so it’s going nowhere. With newer pimples the skin can be taut, so setting concealer with powder is important so it won’t move. Once you start treating the pimple (and picking at it, because you never learn), you may want to skip this step. Some pimples can be drier—the skin around or on it, because it’s been treated with salicylic acid, so adding powder may make it look especially dry. In this case, less is more and you can skip the powder.
For a concealer that will give your complexion an almost Instagram-style filter, reach for Ella Bache Nutridermologie LAB Correcteur Magistral Pure Focus 19.3% – a concealer for blemished skin and localised imperfections which also corrects dry patches of skin.